Golden Koi, Hikari Mono

These are all metallic and “one” colored koi Fish. They are known collectively as “Ogon”. Hikari means shiny or metallic, and mono means one. Ogon means “golden”. You may often hear variations of the name to include “muji”, which also means “one”. It may seem like a “double emphasis” to say Hikari Mujimono, but it is still considered a correct variety name. I guess some people really want you to know that it really is just the one color. Then just to confuse us all, koi that have a matsuba (a black netting pattern, with the black at the center of the scale) pattern, but have one “primary” color are also in this group.

Koi like Gin (silver) Matsuba Ogon and Kin (gold) Matsuba Ogon are the more common examples of these. The Gin Matsuba has been called the “Leopard Ogon”, because the black centered scales can look to many people like leopard markings. The Kin Matsuba Ogon actually looks to me like it is more an Orange color, and Ray Armstrong in our club has an outstanding example swimming in his pond.Ogons come in many colors. The most common are Purachina (platinum or white), and Yamabuki (bright yellow or almost gold), but other stable types include the Cream (pale gold), Nezu (grey), Orenji (deep metallic orange), Hi (metallic red), and lesser known ones like Mukashi (bronze), and Kuro (metallic black). The original color was“Saffron”, which is supposed to be a golden orange, but I have never had the privilege of seeing this type. They can come in Doitsu varieties also. They may also have kin-gin-rin scales, but these koi are usually moved into the “Gin Rin B” class for koi shows.

Ogons are one of the easiest koi to see a skin quality that separates truly outstanding koi of all types, and just really good ones. It is called fukurin, or amine. Once you have seen with your own eyes this quality, one can work at picking it out in patterned koi. It can easily be confused with gin rin, or metallic,even by accomplished koi keepers and judges. But it is not the same. It is difficult to describe without an outstanding live example in front of you, but I will try. I am referring to a fine netting effect over the koi’s body. The layering effect of skin and scales, the subtle or dramatic difference in pigmentation and luster between the layers, and the difference in light reflection by scales and surrounding skin, all combine to produce this attractive effect. One should first look at the skin on the back of the koi, and then between the scales to distinguish this in your mind and “eye”.

This is where it is most obvious, but Ogon with visible fukurin extending to the belly area are said to be highly valuable. Once you have “seen it” you will not forget it. It is what makes a koi “pop out” in a pond. That indescribable “something special” that someone who has not studied koi and fukurin in depth will talk about.

They don’t know what exactly is different about a particular koi, but they know it is different. The difference is fukurin.Because these koi only have one color, the standard is quite severe. Of course, the basic requirements of koi appreciation must be present. Conformation and skin quality is all there is to judge on, because there is no pattern. They are more obvious if they are “not there” and therefore critical. Conformation interacts with skin quality for metallic koi in a unique way. The higher the luster, or reflective finish, the better quality is the skin. At the same time, the harder is the outline, and more demanding of the basic shape. The flat reflective finish is far more unforgiving in terms of imperfections, than the soft, non-reflective skin of other varieties. The outlines of metallic koi appear harder, very strongly defined.

For example,the rounded, trailing edge of the pectoral fin is almost transparent in many non-metallic varieties, especially younger fish, making a deviation from the perfect line hardly noticeable.A metallic koi, however, has solid looking, highly visible fins right to the tips. Poor quality Ogons unfortunately abound, and are often unfairly marketed as “rare” or “unique”.

Early Ogon types such as “Kin or Gin Kabuto”, which have a light colored head and a black “horseshoe” marking, and black body or black edged scales (not matsuba) are ones to watch out for. Ogons are among the fastest growing, and friendliest koi of all the varieties. This is often credited to their closeness to the original Magoi in breeding. If one wants their koi to hand feed, one common “strategy” is to buy an Ogon as they are usually
the most bold. The other koi will often follow the “lead” of the Ogon and be much friendlier. One of the most famous breeders of Jumbo Yamabuki Ogons in Japan is Izumiya, and for Platinum Ogons, is Choguro, both of the Niigata area. Our “Akachan” (baby) is from Izumiya, and sadly both breeder’s koi houses took major damage in last fall’s earthquake. Hopefully, they will recover and continue, as their koi have a distinctive and powerful presence that would
be missed.

When looking for a young Ogon, there are some important factors to concentrate on.
- Start with the head, as with most koi. It must be very clean, almost “bald”, with no spots or stains, and a highly reflective surface. Older Ogons tend to develop darker areas, and small pits on the head, which are not desirable. I like to see older siblings of any koi, if possible, when selecting koi. Gives one a “glimpse” into the future possibilities of the koi.
- The scales, and particularly the pectoral fins, must have the brightest possible shine to them. The shape of the pectoral fins is critical, and should appear large and well formed.
- The scale pattern must be perfect and symmetrical, leading the eye toward the tail. The light netting effect, already described, tends to highlight the neatness of the scaling very attractively.

Hikari Mono, or Ogon, are very popular among novice koi keepers and are one of the first types of koi many of us have bought. The trend is move away from these koi as one’s taste becomes more “refined”. Very serious koi keepers often move “back” to Ogons because of their quiet charm, the generally big size they achieve, and because to have an absolutely flawless example is an achievement in itself.We find that the contrast of a nice Ogon in a pond makes all the koi stand out and now find them an essential part of any complete collection.



Taken From :
Selecting a Young Hikari Mono, by BobWinkler, AKCA Certified Judge with Credit to Kate McGill, BKKS and ZNA Certified Judge

Selecting Tancho KOI

A“Tancho” is a koi with a distinctive, usually round and red (hi), marking on the head that does not appear anywhere else on the body. Originally the name was “Hinomaru”, a crimson disk on white ground, representative of the Japanese national flag. The word “tancho” derives from the Japanese crane, a white bird with a round red crest. The roundish head marking which appears in addition to any other similar colored markings on the body is known as Maruten, as opposed to Tancho. Any koi variety with more than one color is capable of producing a tancho: for example Tancho Goshiki, a basic red and white koi with shades of blue and black as an
overlaying vignette: or Tancho Ogon, a head. However, tancho koi are more usually associated with Kohaku, a white koi with red patterns, with Taisho Sanke, a “white
based” koi with red and black, and with Showa Sanshoku, a “black based” koi with
red and white, arranged differently from Taisho Sanke.


It is just these three (Gosanke) varieties that provide the show class Tancho. Other koi having a tancho pattern are classified with their basic variety, although that may change in the next few years in the U.S.

The tancho marking, as a key feature of this variety, was originally desired to be large, round solidly colored, and to have clean sharp edges. The (ideally) round hi should cover as much of the head as possible, but without incursion over eyes or
shoulders; hence a koi with a broad forehead would be more likely to develop the classic tancho.While this is preferred, other shapes and sizes of tancho have become acceptable. But they are not as highly prized by most collectors, and the perfect
round tancho marking is hard to find, especially in the larger sizes. However, there is much more to a good tancho than just a well defined, round red marking on the head. The koi must have the requisite criteria for high quality. Excellent
conformation, clear bright, lustrous skin with well balanced, solid, clear edged body components (when any are present, such as in Tancho Sanke or Tancho Showa), and pleasing, alert deportment.

The Tancho Kohaku is perhaps the epitome of the tancho ideal, a plain white background with the simplest of overlays.When there is such a plain base, perfect symmetry of both body shape and fins are an absolute requirement. Such a large expanse of white skin is highly demanding of a smooth, lustrous, unblemished, pure white finish. Scaling must also be neat, as any unevenness of the scale lines is very obvious on a koi where the body is a single color. Probably the most common problem seen on this type of koi at shows is a (usually) stress related flushing of the white skin, which considerably damages the impression. Nevertheless, a Tancho Kohaku that merits the word “excellent” in truly a memorably koi.

When selecting a young Tancho, the larger the round hi marking, the more stable the tancho is thought to be as it ages. Some also think that buying a tancho at least two years in age helps make sure it is stable.A tancho marking has often disappeared as the koi ages from age one to two, much to the chagrin of many a koi keeper. The tancho of a youngster rarely has sharp definition, but if it is big when the koi is small, it will often achieve the desired definition in time. The hi of the young
tancho must be thick and even, and should preferably not have achieved the much desired crimson red of an adult Tancho. The edging and uniformity of the color often indicates the strength of the marking.A definite fault out of which the koi will not
grow is the presence of yellow or brown stains surrounding the hi marking. But one must also again remember not to base the decision only on the quality of the tancho marking. The overall quality of the koi must be judged, and specifically the quality of the ground on which the tancho lies. The ground must be pure and of such quality as to promote the etching of the hi marking. In Tancho Sanke and Tancho Showa, the ideal pattern of Shiro Bekko and Shiro Utsuri must be sought and the sumi
must be thick, ebony-like and perfectly defined. For Tancho Showa, motoguro in the pectoral fins is an absolute prerequisite and for the Tancho Sanke, the tejima striping of the pectoral fins is desirable.

Tancho koi are a group demonstrating an interesting pattern variation that is popular with many hobbyists. The impression they give can be quite variable, often light hearted, and always appealing. They are thought to bring “good luck” in a pond,
and make an interesting addition to any collection of koi.

Source: http://www.makc.com/MAKCLIBRARY/Tancho_Winkler.pdf

Selecting Bekko Koi

Bekko is colored Koi type with a black pattern. Shiro Bekko is the most commonly seen between Aka Bekko and Ki Bekko. Shiro Bekko are a white skinned Koi with a black stepping stone pattern, Ki Bekko are a yellow skinned Koi with a black stepping stone pattern, and Aka Bekko are a red skinned Koi with a black stepping stone pattern.

Pic.1. Shiro Bekko

The preferred quality of sumi in Bekko is the same as those in Sanke, i.e., arranged like a set of stepping stones in a garden. There has to be a moderate number of sumi markings to help create the Bekko’s appearance of being neat, tidy, and elegant. Because of the simplicity of the coloring and pattern, the criteria in selecting for quality are quite severe.Shiro Bekko should have a true white base, without any yellowing. Unfortunately, a common problem for Shiro Bekko is the development of a yellow head.When selecting a young Bekko, not a single hi marking (however faint) is permissible. Also avoid any young Aka Bekko or Ki Bekko with the slightest indication of small white markings or breaks on the ground of red or yellow. In small Bekko, the sumi markings might not have full luster and might even still be “submerged.”Where the sumi is still submerged, it will appear bluish.

Select youngsters with well defined sumi markings arranged along the length of the body. Bear in mind that the sumi markings of the young Bekko will have to remain substantial enough in size and arrangement when it has grown big. If the size and pattern of the markings are insipid in a young Bekko (regardless of their quality), the Bekko will have an even more insipid appearance when it is an adult. It should be immediately apparent that the sumi markings, viewed individually, will be strong, but also that the pattern of those markings will nevertheless be elegant. Too much Tejima, or ojima (stripes in the tail) are not attractive. If they appear boldin a young Bekko, they might gain the desired definition later on, but this can never be guaranteed.


Source:
1. Selecting Young Bekko,BobWinkler, AKCA Certified Judge, Colorado.

Selecting Showa Koi

Showa is also a Kohaku koi type, that has a black pattern on top. They are in gosanke koi classification. Select showa must start with that perfect Kokaku. The word, Kohaku, sure comes up a lot.Take the perfect Kohaku and add the black in the right places and you have Showa. Showa is koi type with combination of a good Kohaku and a good Shiro Utsuri koi type. Showa go through many changes as they grow. Many times the black is very deep and only comes out as the fish grows. For this reason, if you see gray areas, it might not be poor quality white but deep black that will appear later.

The sumi on the showa should be strong. It should look like it emanates from the bottom of the fish and properly wrap the body. It is this wrapping of color that gives the Showa the look of strength. There is no more powerful fish than a good Showa. It has double power in the wrapping of red and black. It also has the high contrast of three colors. After the head, the rest of the sumi should be bold and balanced. Look closely at body conformation because of all the black. The black can hide defects in body, mouth and head.

Showa Head

The head of showa should have all 3 colors (red, black and white), preferably in equal mounts. The head on a Showa is very important. This time the head must have black on it. In fact it must have all three colors on it. The shoulder area of the showa should have all three colors and the Ozuke, tail region, should also have all three Best would be to have a good kohaku head with either a lightening stripe or a v-shape in black on the top of the head. Many showas don't develop this until later, so just try to pick one that has good red and white with some black coming out. Classic head patterns start with a good Kohaku face. Then black comes either down the face to divide it, or down the face and across the shoulder to form a Y.This is called Hachiware

Showa Body

Good Kohaku pattern in the body is good showa ,it should be balanced and be placed all through the body. if black is either present or coming up all over the body. Don't worry if the black is of poor quality at an early age. Black develops later in most good quality showa. It is also okay to have an orange-red at this point because the red gets better as the fish grows. Good showa body conformation is like kohaku koi type.

Pectoral Fins

Ideally Showa Koi , almost all of the pectoral fins, except for the outermost tips, should be black. As the pectoral fins grow out, the black seems to stay the same and the white area on the outside seems to spread out. If the pectoral fins are all black at this time, it is often alright, as this too can grow out to have good showa fins.
Fins that are not acceptable are fins with any red, all white fins, or fins with very little black at the base. All other fins should preferably be white, but some black is acceptable. Red is not acceptable in the fins. Pectoral fins should have Sumi at the base, up against the body. This is called Motoguru.

Ideally it should come out about one third of the pectoral length. Also the most perfect motoguru is surrounded by white. The front ray of the pectoral is white. The sumi does not go to the tip and the back ray is white. Strong motoguru is an indication that the sumi will be stable as the showa Koi grows. Dorsal fin is best in white as is the tail, but black in them can be fine. Avoid brush sumi pectorals, which looks more like stripes, or solid black pectorals. Even on young koi, the pectorals should start having the sumi pull back.

Some modern Showa have clear fins, as Kohakus are bred back in the crosses to righten the red. See you must get back to that perfect Kohaku always. Nose sumi also adds to the elegance of Showa and makes it more powerful.

Percentage of 3 Color

Showa koi have 3 color ,another thing to look for in this particular fish is the percentage of the 3 colors to the total fish. The classic showas koi type used to be about 40% black, 40% red, and 20% white. The modern showas koi type , that many judges like, have equal amounts of all 3 colors.
As you can see, the showa are one of the most difficult koi to select at a young age because they change so much as they grow. It is this complexity that makes this one of my favorites of the varieties of koi.

Reference:

AKca Library

How To Select Taishio Sanshoku/Sanke

Sanke or Taishio Sansoku is one of Koi Type from Gosanke Class, other type in gosanke are Kohaku and Showa.The word Sanke literally means tri-color, the three colors being red, white and black. in Japanese Characters, the word Sanke is also read Sanshoku, the term used in early works on Koi.Selecting a good sanke is very similar to selecting a good kohaku.

Basic Sanke Colors
Sanke is a three colored fish with hi (red) and sumi (black) markings on a white body.
- As with the Kohaku, the depth of these colors is very important. The white should be the color of snow - a yellowish white does not give a good background for the pattern to stand out and gives the fish a dull appearance.

- The head of the sanke, as in all varieties of koi, is one of the most important things to look at.
- The head should be the exact same head as kohaku. There must be red on the head and the red should go down to the nostrils.
- The nose is better if it is white.
- One eye may be covered in red as long as the red is not over-powering. Red is too over-powering when it covers both eyes.
- There Must Not Be Any Black On the head.
- Next look for an interesting pattern of red all the way down the body. Do not pick a koi with only red on the front half or on the back half of the body.
- The hi should be of the same quality as on a good Kohaku. It should be of deep hue and of uniform shade.
- The proportion of red to white should, again, be the same as on a good Kohaku. The base of any good Sanke pattern is a good Kohaku pattern.
- The sumi of a Sanke should be fine, uniform in shade and with good depth of color. It should be shiny in appearance. As sumi should overlay the Kohaku-style pattern, the markings need to be clearly defined in order to stand out.
Sumi can appear and disappear over the lifetime of a koi, and sumi of poor quality may be affected by water quality, temperature change and change of environment. Sumi markings on Sanke are also described by their position on the pattern of the koi, so sumi that appears on the white skin is known as "tsubo" sumi, while sumi that appears on the hi is known as "Kasane" sumi.

First black spot is on the shoulder (not on the head). If there is no black until further back on the fish, the head can look too elongated. The rest of the black further back on the fish should be in a nice pattern that is balanced and preferably in the white areas rather than on the red. Some black on the red pattern is alright but the more black in the white the better. The black spots are better if not much larger than a quarter and should not distract from the red pattern.
Modern sankes are basically kohakus with a few small black spots placed in the white field. Red should take up about 70% of the fish, the black about 10%, and the rest white.
At an early stage, look for a fish with a lot of interesting red and very little black. Black tends to come out later and if you start with too much black, the black may be too powerful later. The red may be bright red or orange-red because the red can improve with age. The white should be snow white or slightly pink white. Black develops later, so pick one with only a little black that is balanced now. Avoid any sanke that has a lot of small, black, peppery like spots. Pepper like spots can be a sign of poor quality.

The fins on the sanke should be either all white or white with black stripes. There should be no red in any of the fins. Be careful buying an early sanke with many black stripes in the pectoral fins. These sometimes develop too much black at a later stage.

Sanke Patterns
Although Sanke differ from Kohaku in that they have three colors, the criteria by which the two varieties are judged are very similar.


Sanke Head
There should be no sumi on the head of the Sanke. The head pattern required is the same as on a Kohaku: that is a large U shaped hi marking, which should not extend down over the whole face. Unusual shaped head patterns are not so easily tolerated as on Kohaku, possibly because there is an extra color on the fish and a "busy" pattern lacks elegance and visual impact.

Sanke Body
Large hi markings are preferred down the length of the Sanke's body, complemented by sumi markings, which should also extend the length of the body. Sumi marks should start at the shoulder. Sumi markings should be small in number - an excessive amount of small sumi markings gives the koi an untidy appearance. AKA Sanke - This is a Sanke whose hi markings extends the length of the body. Maurten Sanke - This is a Sanke with a separate hi marking on the head.

REFERENCE:
1.Pic From Narita Koi
2.Akca Library

Selecting Kohaku Koi Type

One of the most quoted phrases in koi keeping is that the hobbyist begins with Kohaku and ends with Kohaku. In fact, many new hobbyists overlook the Kohaku in preference for the brightly colored Ogon and other metallic koi because they feel that Kohaku look too much like goldfish! However, as they begin to appreciate the colors and patterns of koi, hobbyists often turn to Kohaku because of their simplicity and elegance. When looking at a large number of kohakus, perhaps hundreds at a time, the first thing I look for is a white tip at the front and back of the fish. It is preferable to have the red on the head of a kohaku to only go down about as far as the nostrils. Also, the head must have red on it. Don't pick a kohaku with an all white head. Red over the eyes of the koi used to be looked down upon, but in modern times it may come down over the eye. However, I think it is better if the red only comes down over one eye, not both eyes at the same time.

The head is generally one of the most important parts in an early koi. Now that you have several koi with acceptable head patterns, I look at the rest of the body. As I said earlier, I also look to see if there is a white patch right before the tail. If at all possible, I would like one there, but if all the rest of the koi has positive characteristics, this is not as important as the head.
For the body, I look for red that is balanced side to side and covers 70% of the body. This is so that as the koi grows up, and the white comes up, there is still adequate red on the body. The red on the body can be in a zig_zag pattern (inazuma), a three or four step pattern, or anything else that looks eye catching. If the red is straight with no signs of breaking, the pattern may be uninteresting as the koi grows. I also look for koi that are broad at the shoulders, have a large skull, and have relatively large pectoral fins. This generally means the koi will grow larger to compete in shows.
Colors
Kohakus are white koi with red (hi) markings. Ideally, the hi should have a good depth of color but, more importantly, the color should be of a uniform shade and the edge of the hi pattern should be well defined. This definition between white and hi markings is known as "kiwa". There appear to be two types of coloration. The purplish red hi is dark and does not fade easily. This color is considered to lack elegance and tends to splatter over the koi. Brownish red hi can produce a very fine, almost translucent, color but tends to fade easily. The white should be the color of fresh snow and free from blemishes. A poor white, which can be dirty yellow in appearance, will spoil an otherwise good Kohaku because the hi pattern will not stand out.The unity and balance of color and pattern on a Kohaku are of the utmost importance. As a general guideline, the hi should cover between 50 and 70 percent of the koi.

Patterns
Because Kohaku appears as such a simple koi in terms of coloration, the criteria by which they are judged is severe. The pattern is the last thing to consider when the koi is being judged but is probably the most discussed. Balance over the whole of the koi's body is the key to any pattern.

Head
On any Kohaku the hi pattern begins on the head. The traditional head pattern for the hi is a large U shape, which should reach down as far as the eyes. If the hi does not reach the eyes, the pattern can be balanced by "kuchibeni" or lipstick like markings. A hi marking that reaches the mouth is know as "hanatsuki" and a pattern that spreads over the face is called "menkaburi". Recently, koi keepers have begun to appreciate Kohaku with interesting or irregular shaped marking on the head.

Body
Large hi markings are preferred to small hi markings. A break in the pattern is preferred between the back of the head and the shoulder. Variation is also important. Koi grow from the abdomen, so when selecting a young Kohaku, look for a large pattern of hi. Balance of pattern over the body of the koi is most important. A Kohaku that has most of its hi pattern at the front of its body lacks balance and elegance.

Patterns
Inazuma: This is a continuous pattern, extending from the head to the tail, but with a zig zag look. Inazuma literally means lightning.
Nidan: Nidan means two and this koi has two hi markings.
Sandan This Koi has three hi markings.
Yondan: This Kohaku has four hi markings.
Goten-zakura: This koi has a cherry-blossom pattern. The hi is dappled and looks like clusters of grapes.
Kanoko: This fish actually is classified in the Kawarimono class and not Kohaku in shows. The head hi is solid but the body hi is dappled.

Tail
The end of the pattern is as important as the beginning. On a perfectly marked Kohaku, the hi pattern ends just before the tail joint.

Fins
Snow white fins are the perfect accompaniment to the red on white pattern of a large koi. As a general rule, hi extending into the fins is considered detrimental to the koi's markings. Hi in the pelvic fins is not a problem because it cannot be seen when the koi is judged.

Scalation
Scalation should be even all over the body of the koi. The Japanese prefer hi that is strong enough to disguise the individual scales. Scales that are visible because the hi is thin are known as "kokesuki". A Kohaku of any pattern with scales only along the dorsal and lateral lines is known as a Doitsu Kohaku.

When buying young kohakus, don't worry too much about the color. The white should preferably be snow white but may also be pink if it was color fed before shipping. Avoid kohakus with a dirty grayish_white. As for the red, it may be either bright red or orange_red. Many orange_red young kohakus turn a pretty red as they grow. Next make sure there are no red or black marks on any of the fins. A small red patch at the base of the pectorals may be okay. Also, make sure there are no black marks on the body. All red on the body should also be in sizeable patches, not in single scale areas (ie. small red spots).
Last, but not least, take the koi out in a show tub and check for any body defects or any signs of disease. If these exist, do not buy the fish no matter how nice it looks. I hope this information can give you some help in selecting kohakus. Who knows? In 7 years you may have a grand champion.

REFERENCE
AKCA Library
Japan Online

Koi Living Jewels of the Orient, Good Reference For Koi Keepers

This Koi Book presented in an easy to understand format, from the origins of the hobby to the present, and the pictures are spectacular.This book can get from Online Koi Book Store. It is full of beautiful pictures and has lots of useful information, but it is not as exhaustive a reference as it would seem from its size. Each variety of koi is beautifully represented, and the chapters on nutrition and water quality are enlighteningto us Koi are hardy fish, relatively large in size, and the most practical way to keep them is in an outdoor pond. Nishikigoi is familiar name for koi . Water pond quality influences koi development. Combining text with illustrations, an important section of the book explains the requirements of a garden pond for koi, showing the filtration system and pointing out how it functions. Water Filter very urgent for good pond design.The water quality chapter wastes entire pages on step-by-step instructions on how to use a particular brand of water test (they come with instructions,we don't need this in a book). The filtration chapter is devoted almost exclusively to a particular filtration system that chapter's author designs and sells.

Most of the book concentrates on koi themselves, focusing on a brief history of koi, advice on buying koi, the fish's physiology, health care, feeding, breeding koi, showing koi, and joining koi clubs. An 80-page section tells all about koi variations, and features color photos of more than 100 varieties. Illustrated two-page spreads review each variety's history, and show both their more desirable and less desirable color markings. Here is a beautifully designed and illustrated volume that emphasizes the special satisfactions of keeping and breeding koi. Approximately 450 color photos and illustrations.

Published 01 November 2002.
Published by Barron's Educational Series.
208 pages Hardcover.
ISBN: 0764154486
ISBN-13: 9780764154485

Table Of Content

Introduction to Part One p. 10
Koi keeping--the enduring hobby p. 12
Water quality p. 20
Filtration p. 36
Designing and building a koi pond p. 54
Physiology and health care p. 76
Buying koi p. 96
Feeding koi p. 102
Showing koi p. 108
Breeding koi p. 116

Introduction to Part Two p. 124
Kohaku p. 126
Sanke p. 134
Showa p. 140
Utsurimono p. 146
Bekko p. 152
Asagi and Shusui p. 156
Koromo p. 160
Kawarimono p. 166
Hikarimuji p. 174
Hikarimoyo p. 178
Hikari Utsuri p. 184
Kin-Gin-Rin p. 188
Tancho p. 190
Doitsu p. 194
Index and Credits p. 198
Table of Contents provided by Syndetics. All Rights Reserved.

Choose Good Koi Fish

This article is simple guideline to choose Good Koi Fish for newbie. After we have clear known difference between Koi and Nishikigoi in the previous article. In the other article we have talk about koi types. As a Koi keeper you need to decide what level of Koi quality, you are looking for Pond Quality koi, Ornamental Quality or Show Quality. Before you start choose koi you must prepare koi pond before. Best way don't place over quota of koi in pond. Make sure pond filter running well and water in mature condition.
First determine the amount of money you would like to spend. Many Koi keepers don't want to spend much, but want the very best and this is almost impossible. Each Koi has different possibilities, size, and quality. A Koi which achieves its best condition while still small will not, usually, maintain this quality as it grows. Some of you may have experienced owning a small Koi, a winner in competition, that later on has started to lose pattern and color.

Before you spent money for Koi , this simple Guidline For Good Koi ,there are three basic factors for every Koi types evaluation, Form, Color and Pattern. According to the contest screening standard, Koi are evaluated on Form 50%, Color 30%, and Patterns 20%.

1.Form
Well shaped Nishikigoi with proper height and width that look healthy and powerful are rated high. Attracted by beautiful color and exquisite patterns, bodily defects are sometimes overlooked.

2.Color
The vivid red, deep charcoal-black patterns, even colors and beautiful in hue. Evenly colored, free from shading, such as white snow ones are highly rated.

3.Pattern
Well balanced patterns, symmetrical on either sides are highly rated. Clear patterned-edges (Kiwa) and uniformly colored on top (Sashi) are more highly.

3.Shine
Not cloudy on the head or on the body, and shining wholly are rated well.

4.Dignity and aroma
Unbalanced patterns, but bestowed with dignity or aroma of its own are well rated.
Your own taste will anyway play an important role in judging the most appropriate for you.
Try to find out the attractive one of originality, not always finding a fault.

5.Female and male
Female: white fair skin, plump belly and larger size. Male: quick in swimming. Finish is fast and very beautiful, allowing participation in the contest during juvenile.



Reference:
1. Japan Koi

Koi Type Classification Part IV

This article is fourth part of four series article about koi type for newbie Koi Keeper who want to start keep koi. About this series koi types and koi clasification designed in 4 part. Part I talk about Gosanke and Bekko . Part II about Utsurimono, Asagi and Tancho. Part III about about Hikarimono,Goromo And Hikarimoyo. The last part talk about type of koi in classification Matsuba and Kawarimono.


Matsuba
Aka Matsuba is a red koi with black centres to its scales, creating a pine cone effect.Ki Matsuba as above but yellow. Kin matsuba is a metallic gold or orange koi whose scales have black centres, causing a pine cone effect. Gin matsuba is the Silver version.

These Koi have a grey shading pattern on their scales.

1.Shiro Matsuba

Shiro Matsuba are a white Koi with a black net pattern. When buying a Shiro Matsuba,
make sure that the net pattern is equal all over the Koi. Watch out for any discolored scales or old scars.


Matsubas have been around almost as long as the Asagis. They are closly related,
sharing the same net pattern.

2. Aka Matsuba

Aka Matsuba are a red Koi with a black net pattern. When buying a Aka Matsuba,
make sure that the net pattern is equal all over the Koi. Watch out for any discolored scales or old scars. The Hi should be very deep too.


Matsubas have been around almost as long as the Asagis. They are closly related,
sharing the same net pattern.

Kawarimono

These Koi don't fit into any other classification.

1.Ochiba Shigure

Ochiba Shigures are made by breeding a Chagoi with a Soragoi. Look for a nice Kohaku-like
brown pattern. This is a very nice fish and this type really stands out in any collection.
The Japanese breeders often name the Koi after things that
they like. Ochiba Shigure, for example, means "leaves fallen on the water.

2.Kumonryu

Kumonryu are one of the strangest Koi. They are scaless and their pattern actually changes throughout
the year. No one is absolutely sure what causes the color change, but the two best theories are a change
in temperature or a change in pH. Kumonryu are usually black in the winter and the white usually appears in the spring and summer.
Kumonryu aren't usually judged by their pattern. Look for good symmetry between the black and white. When the color of a Kumonryu is changing, the area turns a blue/grayish color.

3. Beni Kumonryu

Beni Kumonryu are a rare form of Kumonryu, they have red along with the black and white. They are
scaless and their pattern actually changes throughout the year. No one is absolutely
sure what causes the color change, but the two best theories are a change in temperature or a change
in pH. Beni Kumonryu are usually black in the winter. The white and red usually appears in the spring and summer.

Beni Kumonryu aren't usually judged by their pattern. Look
for good symmetry between the red, black and white. When the color
of a Beni Kumonryu is changing, the area turns a blue/greyish color.

4.Benigoi

Benigoi or Higoi are Koi that are solid red. When buying a Benigoi, look for solid
Hi. Check the fish over for any old scars or bad scales, for these will take away
from the look of the Koi.
Benigoi and Higoi are the same fish. The name, Benigoi, is given
to the Higoi with exeptionally deep red.

5. Karasugoi

Karasugoi are Koi that are solid black. When buying a Karasugoi, look for one with deep color.
Check the fish over for any old scars or bad scales, for these will take away
from the look of the Koi.The Japanese breeders often name the Koi after things that
they like. Karasugoi, for example, means "Black Crow."

6.Haijiro

Haijiro are Koi that are solid black with white tipped fins. When
buying a Haijiro, look at the white on the fin edges and make sure it is even with the other side.
Check the fish over for any old scars or bad scales, for these will take away
from the look of the Koi.Haijiro

Haijiro are Karasugoi with white tipped fins. These are a nice addition
to the Koi varieties and allow for a larger collection.

7.Aka Haijiro

Aka Haijiro are Koi that are solid red with white tipped fins. When
buying an Aka Haijiro, look at the white on the fin edges and make sure it is even with the other side.
Check the fish over for any old scars or bad scales, for these will take away
from the look of the Koi.Aka Haijiro are Higoi with white tipped fins. These are a nice addition
to the Koi varieties and allow for a larger collection.

8.Chagoi

Chagoi are a non-metallic brown colored Koi. When buying a Chagoi, look for one with even color.
Check the fish over for any old scars or bad scales, for these will take away
from the look of the Koi. Old scars will appear as dark areas.
Chagoi have the terrible habit of growing very large. It is not uncommon
to see one that is 36 inches swimming around a pond in Japan.

9. Kigoi

Kigoi are Koi that are solid yellow. When buying a Kigoi, look for one with deep color.
Check the fish over for any old scars or bad scales, for these will take away
from the look of the Koi.
The most prized Kigoi have red eyes. This gives them an eerie look.
Some people call the Kigoi, Lemon Koi.

10.Midorigoi

Midorugoi are Koi that are solid green. When buying a Midorigoi, look for one with a nice green color.
Many Midorigois have red spots on them or patches of darker coloration.

The Japanese have a habit of naming things for
what they are. Midorigoi, for example, means "Green Carp."

11. Soragoi
Soragoi are a solid grey Koi. They make a great addition to any Koi collection. When buying a Soragoi, look
for any old scars or any bad scales. The Soragoi in the picture below is actually a Gin Rin
Soragoi. It's scales look strong enough to turn any blade.

Soragoi, along with Chagoi, are used to create Ochiba Shigure. By
combining these two single colored Koi, the Japanese breeders have made
a two colored Koi with a pattern.

REFERENCE
1.Koi Oase
2. Nishikigoi Info

Show Quality Koi

These kois are winner of The 39th All Japan Nishikigoi Show (Tokyo-Show). Beautiful koi with good patern, color and overall beauty. They breeded by famous koi breeder.We can refered to them if we are breeding koi to obtain good koi fish in our pond. Although we are not a professional breeder , be satisfied if we can produce good quality of Koi.

1. Gigantic Champion/Best in Variety

85Bu Showa Sanshoku
Mr. N Budiono Gunawan (Indonesia)
Bred by Dainichi Koi Farm

Showa change very much as they grow.This Koi Type can also take a long time to develop, many times 5 or more years to finish. Many times the black is very deep and only comes out as the fish grows. For this reason, when you see gray areas in the white, it may be deep black that will appear later rather than poor quality white.

Degree in the show is "Gigantic Koi Division Overall Champion" can be translated also as 1st Runner Up GC, while the 2nd Runner Upnya usually called as "Jumbo Koi Division Overall Champion"


2.Jumbo Male Champion
85Bu Male Showa Sanshoku
Mr. Hiromi Muramatsu (Japan)
Bred by Dainichi Koi Farm

The head should have all three colors: red,black, and white, preferably in equal amounts. Best would be to have a good Kohaku head with a lightening stripe or a Y-shape in black on the top of the head. Kuchi sumi or Nose sumi is a sign of good black to come. Many Showa do not develop this until later, so try to pick a koi with good red and white with some black coming out.

3.Mature Champion
70Bu Taisho Sanshoku
Mr. Tepsit (Thailand)
Bred by Marudo Fish Farm


The head of the sanke, as in all varieties of koi, is one of the most important things to look at. The head should be the exact same head as you would buy in a kohaku. There must be red on the head and the red should go down to the nostrils. The nose is better if it is white. One eye may be covered in red as long as the red is not over-powering. Red is too over-powering when it covers both eyes. THERE MUST NOT BE ANY BLACK ON THE HEAD.
Next look for an interesting pattern of red all the way down the body. Do not pick a koi with only red on the front half or on the back half of the body. If you have followed the above steps, you will notice you now have a good kohaku.

4. Adult Champion
55Bu Taisho Sanshoku
Mr. Tepsit (Thailand)
Bred by Sakai FIsh Farm

Sakai Fish Farm is a wholesale special trader. not selling it to general those who love.Please acknowledge itHigh quality koi food.Sakai Special Brend Koi food for color up.They havw mud ponds for fly breeding and selection Over 90ponds.Aquarium water temperrature Observation machine Oxygen generating equipment Aeration equipment
Sakai original automatic feeding machine





5.Young Champion
40Bu Showa Sanshoku
Mr. Yoshio Kubota (Japan)
Bred by Uonuma Koi Farm









6.Miya Hideo Prize
90Bu Hikarimuji
黄　創増様 (Hong Kong)
Bred by Marusei Koi Farm









7. 65Bu Kokugyo Prize

65Bu Utsurimono
Ms. Yoshiko Miyagcawa (Japan)
Bred by Omosako Koi Farm








8. 55Bu Kokugyo Prize
55Bu Kohaku
Mr. Jitsuo Takagi (Japan)
Bred by Sakai Fish Farm









9. 30Bu Kokugyo Prize
30Bu A Ginrin
Mr. Yoshikatsu Toyama (Japan)
Bred by Suzusei Koi Farm









10. 12Bu Kokugyo Prize
12Bu Kohaku
Mr. Takashi Fujimoto (Japan)
Bred by Hoshikin Koi Farm









11. Best in Variety

90Bu Taisho Sanshoku
Mr. Tepsit (Thailand)









12.Best in Variety/Sakura Prize



90Bu Kawarikoi
黄　創増様 (Hong Kong)
Bred by Koisho Shiagenosato Shuya






13. 80Bu Sakura Prize

80Bu Kujyaku
Mr. Tepsit (Thailand)
Bred by Konishiki Koi Farm








14.60Bu Sakura Prize
60Bu B Ginrin
黄　創増様 (Hong Kong)
Bred by Minuma Koi Farm









15. Best in Variety
90Bu Doitsufcfc
Mr. Eiji Maeda (Japan)
Bred by Konishiki Koi Farm

















Source :
http://narita-koi.com/

Choosing Koi

People said "Koi" as a general term. There is a difference between "Koi" and "Nishikigoi." "Koi" (common carp) are found in rivers and lakes. These carp are used as food. "Nishikigoi" are a spedal breed of carp, which is adrrired solely for their beauty. Nishikigoi, known as "living jewelry," originated in Niigata. It is this breed of fish that will be discussed although, to conform to general understanding the term "Koi" also will be used in this text to describe "Nishikigoi."

Throughout the years, the breed has been improved and is broken into several categories such as "Kohaku," "Taishio Sanshoku", "Showa-Sanshoku" and many others.

There is no set price for the Nishikigoi. The seller and the buyer decide a price depending upon the knowledge of both. The price also varies according to their size, quality, and condition.

Many times, an expensive Koi will change in the course of its growth and become a worthless one. Likewise an inexpensive Nishikigoi, sometimes, could change into a champion. The knowledge of dealers and Koi keepers determine the future of the fish. Pond environment can change the condition of the Nishikigoi. An expensive and beautiful fish can lose its color in six months because of a poorly conditioned pond. In a pond with a good system, the color will deepen and become beautiful.

QUALITY LEVELS FOR KOI

1. Pond Quality
Pond quality Koi can be purchased at local pet shops and breeders. Mostly this type of Koi is bred locally with a mixed blood line and no previous record. Often it is not known who did the breeding and most are not suitable for competition. However, they are very inexpensive to buy and enjoyable in the pond.

2. Ornamental Quality
Ornamental Koi are not bad quality. They may have been bred from good quality parents, have good blood lines, good conformation, and beautiful color. The only difference between ornamental and show quality Koi is the pattern. In most show quality Koi, the very important in addition to the body conformation, Jihada (skin), Kiwa (edge of pattern) and evenness of color. Most ornamental types have an unbalanced pattern with many faults, however, they are very beautiful and can be bought inexpensively. Some may even be used as breeding parents.

3.Show Quality


There are many requirements to be considered when selecting show quality Koi. Good Koi Show should have:

1. Good body conformation.

2.Good shiny skin Uffiada).

3. Sharp pattern edge (Kiwa).

4. Evenness of color in the pattern.

5. Overall well balanced patterns.

The experts consider bloodline to be an extremely important element and are sure that most show quality Koi are bred from parents with a good blood line.

The breeding season in Japan runs from April until the early part of June. In the early spring the female can lay 200,000 to 400,000 eggs. The small fry begin to display colors as early as 3 weeks. There is a continual sorting and culling operation during the summertime, in which the Koi that show most promise are separated from the culls. Culls usually are destroyed. Some breeders cook the culls and feed them to the young fish for high protein.

Many very young fry are discarded because their genes have been strongly influenced by their original hereditary color. For example, the Kohaku originated from both white and red colored carp. Many Kohaku fry display single white, red and even dark gray colors.

Selected young Koi are released in a mud pond which is very rich in natural food. Of course they are provided additional food too. They grow rapidly under these conditions until October when they are caught. The first year Koi or "Tosai" are 5 to 6 inches long. They are only 6 months old when they have a chance to see the world, that is, the first time they are netted by the breeder from the mud ponds. "Tategoi" or potential Koi are kept in mud ponds for further growth although some are bought by large wholesale dealers for future investment. The best Tategoi, roughly 500 to 1,000 or more, will stay in the ponds until the following October. Then the best Koi, those that are in excellent condition with good patterns and color for competition, will be sold to the Koi dealer or the individual Koi keeper at an unbelievably high price.

The following year, again in October, the breeders and wholesale dealers drain the mud pond where the "Tosai-Tategoi" have been kept. Those "Tategoi" that are ready with good pattern and color will be sold. The young potential fish that are not ready but have a good pattern will be returned to the mud ponds for another year. The rest of the Koi that are not considered in the Tategoi category anymore because of undesirable pattern or color, willbe sold at auction.

Many Koi keepers think that "Tategoi" means only small Koi,but for the dealer "Tategoi" means Koi of any size, from three inches to more than thirty inches, that have potential to become beautiful in the future. Each Koi has a different quality, personality, and character and each will grow to a different size. One could become beautiful, another worthless and others could attain top condition when they are only six inches in size. Alternatively, others only achieve top condition when they grow to about thirty inches. Although a dealer may have many years of experience and the best knowledge, when he picks more than a thousand "Tosai-Tategoi," he realizes only a few percent will reach his expectations.

Many Koi keepers ask the question "Why is Nishikigoi so expensive?" Being fully aware of the many problems that face the breeders, wholesalers and dealers, the dedicated hard work spread out over several years plus the costs involved it is understandable why Show quality Koi are expensive.

Each Koi has different possibilities, size, and quality. A Koi which achieves its best condition while still small will not, usually, maintain this quality as it grows. Some of you may have experienced owning a small Koi, a winner in competition, that later on has started to lose pattern and color. In past Koi competitions in Japan as well as in the United States, a small Koi (under 10 inches) that has won a high prize usually will not maintain the same condition and win another high prize when it becomes larger (more than 28 inches). On the other hand, if a large Koi (more than 26 inches) becomes beautiful and in top condition it will normally keep the same condition for a long time, unless placed in a bad environment. In the past, in Japan, some of the large Koi, (more than 30 inches), that took Grand Champion in the All Japan Koi Competition have come back the next year to win Grand Champion again. Maybe this next time they are entered in a larger size category or under a new owner's name.

As a Koi keeper, you need to decide what level of Koi quality you are looking for i.e.. pond quality, ornamental quality, or show quality. Show quality can be very expensive, however, if not interested in Koi competitions, you do not have to spend a lot of money to enjoy beautiful fish. Do not expect to get show quality pattern with pond type of fish. If you are thinking about competing in a Koi show, you must consider an entirely different selection process. All show quality Nishikigoi are not expensive, but most are.

First determine the amount of money you would like to spend. Many Koi keepers do not want to spend much, but want the very best and this is almost impossible. However, if the Koi you select is not polished or in the best color condition, it will not be as expensive as one that is polished. With a well maintained pond and a good filter system, it is possible you could improve and polish a good quality Koi. Normally, small Koi are less expensive than large ones but, sometimes, polished small Koi are more expensive than unpolished large. Some knowledge regarding potential is required when buying small Koi because they will change drastically during a six month period. If you can predict the changes in a small Koi within 6 months to a year, then you must be very good at selection.

Very often good quality, medium to large Koi that have not been polished, or have been damaged by either bad water conditions or excessive transportation will be sold for a reduced price. By putting them into a good pond environment with a good filter system this type of Koi could be improved.

Unless the intention is to enter the fish in a competition immediately it is not wise to purchase a polished small Koi at a high price. The Koi keepers in Japan say, "The person who buys expensive "Tosai" is a fool and the dealer who sells expensive "Tosai" is also a fool." The only way to acquire the skills to pick small Koi for the future is to buy many small ones and watch how they change. Observe how pattern and colors change with body growth. For example: if the size of the red pattern does not keep up with the growth of the body then, later; the red pattern will be diminished by the body. On the other hand, be aware of the size of the black pattern, most of the time, will increase when the Koi gets bigger.

In conclusion, if you are looking for inexpensive show quality Nishikigoi, learn as much as you can by getting active in organizations such as Koi dubs. In addition, attend as many Koi shows as possible, learn how and why the judges make their decisions, most judges do not mind if you ask questions. Some Koi keepers will tell you that the only way to learn is to make mistakes first. This maybe true but don't make too many costly mistakes. One of the best ways to learn about Nishikigoi is to visit and talk to people who are knowledgeable. Another is to take pictures when you purchase your Koi then, if it is small, take pictures every month until it reaches top condition and you will see the changes. Medium and large Koi don't usually change as much as small ones, so take the pictures every three to six months. Of course, each Koi will grow differently, but certain categories such as Kohaku, Taisho-Sanshoku, Showa-Sanshoku change in a similar way.

REFERENCE:

1. Gratn Fujita. http://www.akca.org/library/tategoi3.htm

2. http://www.niigata-nishikigoi.com/

3. http://www.koi.com/

Koi Type Part II :Utsurimono,Asagi and Tancho

This continuance of the first article about Koi Classification to help us know and familiar with koi variety. In this article the next three tipe of koi Utsurimono, Asagi and Tancho will describe.

UTSURIMONO

Utsurimono is The black Koi with a colored pattern.Include in Utsurimono type are Shiro Utsuri , Hi Utsuri and Ki Utsuri.

Shiro Utsuri
Shiro Utsuri are like Showa, they are a black skinned Koi, but Shiro Utsuri only have one pattern,
white. A good Shiro Utsuri will have a nice balance between the white (shiro) and black (sumi).

When buying, look for a unique pattern.
Be careful when selecting a Shiro Utsuri, look for any small black dots, these will only get worse
as the Koi ages. If you have the chance, see if you can find a older brother or sister to the Koi that
you are looking at and then study it to see how it has developed.

Hi Utsuri
Hi Utsuri are like Showa, they are a black skinned Koi, but Hi Utsuri only have one pattern,
red. A good Hi Utsuri will have a nice balance between the red (hi) and black (sumi).


When buying, look for a unique pattern.
Be careful when selecting a Hi Utsuri, look for any small black dots, these will only get worse
as the Koi ages. If you have the chance, see if you can find a older brother or sister to the Koi that
you are looking at and then study it to see how it has developed.

Ki Utsuri
Ki Utsuri are like Showa, they are a black skinned Koi, but Ki Utsuri only have one pattern,yellow. A good Ki Utsuri will have a nice balance between the yellow (ki) and black (sumi).When buying, look for a unique pattern.


ASAGI
The blue/grey Koi with a red pattern. Include in Asagi type are Asagi and Shusui

Asagi
Asagi are one of the original types of Koi. This is evident with their coloration, red and blue/grey.

When looking at an asagi, the red (hi) should be even on both sides and the grey scales shouldn't
have any flaws.

Shusui

Shusui are the mostly scaless verion of the Asagi. There is usually one row of dark scales on top and one row along the lateral line. Check all over the Shusui before you buy it to make sure that it has a complete row of scales. Also, make that they are straight and do not distort the look of the Koi.

TANCHO

The Koi with a pattern only on their Maruten spots.

Tancho Goromo

Tancho Goromo are just like regular Goromo, but they only have a pattern on their maruten spot,the pattern on the head. Tancho Goromo's are very rare, if you see one, buy it. These do not come around very often. The skin should be very white and the maruten spot should be symmetrical. The maruten spot should sit between and slightly behind the eyes.

The Tancho Koi, the ones with a nice head pattern, are one of the Japanese'
favorite types of Koi. It is because this pattern looks like their national flag and
the red crowned crane (Grus japonensis). Every Koi collector needs at least one
Tancho in their collection.

Tancho Kohaku

Tancho Kohaku, the most common type of Tancho. This is is a very popular variation of the Kohaku,with the Hi (red) pattern only appearing on the head. The Hi should be circular and should be centered of the Koi's head.There should be no other Hi on the body at all.

Reference:

1.http://www.koipondfever.com/shusui-koi.htm

2.http://www.nishikigoi-info.com/

3. http://www.heavkoi.com
4. http://www.koi.com

Identifying Koi Type Part I

This article series designed for newbie Koi Keeper who want to start keep koi fish. About this series koi types and koi clasification designed in 4 part. Part I is this article talk about Gosanke and Bekko . Part II about Utsurimono, Asagi and Tancho. Part III about Hikarimono,Goromo And Hikarimoyo. Last Part about Matsuba and Kawarimono.
Koi are beautiful fish with variety of ornamental colour.Basically Koi are developed from the common carp fish.The hobby of Koi keeping come from Japan and has spread across the world. People believe that keeping koi can give them hocky.it is up to you believe or not. More people like Koi because their beauty. Koi are actually color-mutated food carp.If You beginner of Koi keeper or will start keep koi you must know variety of koi type. Each variety usually has a Doitsu (scaless) version and a Gin Rin (sparkly) scaled version. These classes are based upon the Koi's markings, colors and/or scale type. Within each of these classes there are a number of sub categories.General Clasification of Koi type are Gosanke, Shiro, Utsurimono, Asagi, Tancho, Hikarimono, Goromo, Hikarimoyo, Matsuba and Kawarimono.

But Before talk more about koi type there are Japanese terms relating to Koi. These term will help us to understand description of Koi type.
1. HI , red color only in patches
2.Sumi, black color only in patches
3.Nezu , gray color
4.Midori, green color
5.Cha, brown
6.Beni, dark red
7.Kin, gold (yellow metallic)
8.Matsuba, Pine Cone Pattern
9.Rin, shiny Scale
10. Aka red the whole fish
11.Karasu Black the whole fish
12.Shiro white
13.Ki yellow
14.Orenji orange
15.Ai indigo
16.Gin silver (white metallic)
17.Bekko Black & White
18.Doitsu German scale-less or mirror carp

Gosanke
1. Kohaku
It is said that every hobbyist's collection begins and ends the the Kohaku. The red patternis called Hi. The Hi should be thick with good edges. There are all sorts of different Kohaku patterns.Some are broken up, some are large and sweeping. Look for a pattern that doesn't go down past the eyes and and is well balanced.



The two step Kohaku pattern is called Nidan. The three step pattern is called Sandan. The four step pattern is called Yondan. The lighting strike pattern is called Inazuma.
Most people agree the the best Kohaku have three or four patterns of Hi.

2. Sanke
The Sanke look like Kohaku, but they have a black stepping stone pattern that runs
along their back. The black pattern is called Sumi. A good looking Sanke will have a good Kohaku Hi pattern. The black pattern must not show up on the head and it should not be touching the Hi. Sanke are bred by crossing a Kohaku with a Shiro Bekko.



The best sumi patterns on Sanke look like the dabs of an artist's brush. Many people have a hard time telling the the difference between a Showa and a Sanke. "How do you tell the difference?" they ask. Here are a couple of pointers:
1. Sanke do not have black on their heads, the Showa do.
2. Sanke are white Koi, with red and black patterns. Showa are black Koi, with a white and red pattern.

3.Showa
The Showa is a magnificant Koi. The white, red, and black all fit together perfectly. The beauty of this Koi is a true example of the Japanese breeder's ability to creature living works of art. A good Showa will have a nice balance of color. The pattern must be easy on the eyes and there should be sharp edges between the patterns. Showa are created by breeding a Kohaku with a Shiro Utsuri.

A cool Showa pattern is the sumi slash across the face.

Bekko
Bekko is The colored Koi with a black pattern.

Shiro Bekko
Shiro Bekko are a white skinned Koi with a black stepping stone pattern. The sumi (black) pattern on the Shiro Bekko should be balanced and have sharp edges. Having a hard time telling the difference between a Shiro Bekko and a Shiro Utsuri? Shiro Utsuri have large bands of black while Shiro Bekko have only small patches of color.

The sumi may change as the fish grows. Be careful when selecting a Shiro Bekko, look for any small black dots, these will only get worse as the Koi ages. If you have the chance, see if you can find a older brother or sister to the Koi that you are looking at and then study it to see how it has developed.

Ki Bekko
Ki Bekko are a yellow skinned Koi with a black stepping stone pattern. They are like the Shiro Bekko, but their skin color is bright yellow. The sumi (black) pattern on the Ki Bekko should be balanced and have sharp edges. Ki Bekko are somewhat rarer than its cousin, the Shiro Bekko. The sumi may change as the fish grows. Be careful when selecting a Ki Bekko, look for any small black dots, these will only get worse as the Koi ages.


If you have the chance, see if you can find a older brother or sister to the Koi thatyou are looking at and then study it to see how it has developed.


Aka Beko
Aka Bekko are a red skinned Koi with a black stepping stone pattern. They are like the Shiro Bekko, but their skin color is vibrant red.



The sumi (black) pattern on the Aka Bekko should be balanced and have sharp edges. Aka Bekko are somewhat rarer than its cousin, the Shiro Bekko. The sumi may change as the fish grows. e careful when selecting an Aka Bekko, look for any small black dots, these will only get worse as the Koi ages. If you have the chance, see if you can find a older brother or sister to the Koi that you are looking at and then study it to see how it has developed.

Reference:
1. http://www.tnaquaculture.org/
2. http://www.nishikigoi-info.com/
3. http://www.blogger.com/www.nishikigoiofniigta.com
4. http://www.bluewaterkoi.com/

Special Koi Type

Ogons are single colored metallic Koi. They come in a variety of colors and variations. No Koi keeper's collection is complete without at least one or two Ogons in their pond.

Yamabuki Ogons are a metallic yellow Koi. You don't want to get a Yamabuki Ogon that is too yellow
when you are selecting one. For some reason, they seem to develop Hi (red) spots, usually on
the head. Yamabuki Ogons are usually popular with people that have under-filtered ponds,
because Yamabuki Ogons are easy to see in green water.

But this koi very special. They breeded by breeder in Blitar Indonesia. If they can't classified in Ogon maybe classified in Kawarimono. If Koi Type difficult to Classification, they classified in Kawarimono.


Metalic colour like as real gold. So make this koi unique and wonderful. Other picture of them below.